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Mower Maintenance

It is estimated that each Spring, over two-thirds of all lawn mowers do not receive the recommended maintenance. Whether you are a commercial landscaper or a residential user, basic engine maintenance is essential. The rotary-type lawn mower, which most homeowners have, requires periodic maintenance to keep them in tip top shape. To help put engine maintenance into perspective let’s compare how hard that small engine works whether it’s for commercial or residential use. 

How Hard Does that Engine Work?

“Commercial” VS “Residential”

Commerical Use Residential Use
Operation time of approximately – 6 hours per day Operation time of approximately – 1 hour per day
Engine speed – 3600 RPMs (revolutions per minute) Engine speed – 3600 RPMs (revolutions per minute)
Number of days per week – 5 Number of days per week – 2
Number of weeks per year – 36 Number of weeks per year – 36

 

Now let’s compare a small engine running at 3600 RPMs to a car’s engine running at 3600 RPMs.  Traveling down the highway, with the car’s engine running at 3600 RPMs, it would be traveling approximately 90 miles per hour.

Commerical Use Residential Use
6 hours x 90 mph = 540 miles per day540 miles per day x 5 days = 2700 Miles per week2700 miles per week x 36 weeks = 97,200 miles per year
97,200 miles per year
1 hour x 90 mph = 90 miles per day90 miles per day x 2 days = 180 miles per week180 miles per week x 36 weeks = 6480 miles per year
6,480 miles per year

 

Now that example should remind us how hard a small air cooled engine works. Some people think that maintenance is expensive and unnecessary. The commercial cutter has learned that maintaining their equipment properly saves time and money by reducing costly repairs, preserving equipment valve and minimizing unproductive downtime. Once the value and necessity for maintenance is understood and appreciated, an action plan needs to be created to make it happen.

The first step is to find the information pertinent to your particular equipment. Owner’s manuals and maintenance schedules inside them are often overlooked and seldom read carefully; they are a great resource and the best place to start. Manufacturers are generally very detailed and comprehensive about the maintenance that is best for their equipment and most often a thorough reading of these documents is all that you’ll need to create a maintenance schedule for your equipment. If you would like more information, the Service Manager at your equipment supplier is another good place to look.

To get started we will need an action plan. I will share with you my action plan that I use when I perform my lawn mower maintenance in the early spring.

Action plan:

Five things you should do before you start cutting grass:

  • Change the spark plug.
  • Change the air filter.
  • Change the engine oil.
  • Sharpen the blade.
  • Add fresh gasoline.

Note. The first thing I recommend to do is to remove the spark plug coil wire to insure your mower won’t accidentally start while performing the maintenance. The last thing you should do when you have completed your maintenance is to reinstall the spark plug coil wire.

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Air filter maintenance

Q: I have an air filter with a paper inside and a foam piece around the outside. Do I need to change both every year?

A: No. The outside foam pre-cleaner is designed to catch most of the larger dust and debris particles with the paper filter being the last defense for the engine. Most of the foam filters are designed to be able to be washed out with soap and water instead of needing replacement each time. After you wash out the foam, let it air-dry completely and then squeeze a few drops of motor oil through the filter. This will help it trap the dust as it enters the filter. The inside paper filter cannot be cleaned and needs to be replaced when the grooves become dirty (hold it up to light – if you can’t see light all the way through, it’s time for a new one).

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Last season’s fuel leads to machine not starting

Q: I forgot to drain the fuel out of my machine at the end of last year and now it won’t start. What can I do?

A: This is a very common problem with seasonal equipment. You have a couple of options – you can bring it to Weingartz and we would be happy to help you by cleaning out the carburetor, draining the fuel and doing all of the maintenance necessary to get going for the mowing season. If you would like to try it yourself, you can first try to run a spray fuel reconditioner into the engine (we sell a great product called SeaFoam) to see if that will work. If there hasn’t been a lot of fuel breakdown, you have a good chance of this solving the problem. If it doesn’t, you are in for a little more difficult project. You’ll need to tune up the carburetor – replacing some intricate little parts. Weingartz stocks carburetor kits for most models; you can pick up a kit, rebuild the carburetor and drain the fuel system yourself.

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Unplugging your blower

Q: I have a new hand-held blower. A friend of mine told me to mix the gas and oil mix on the thicker side for better lubrication. Now after I ran a couple of tanks of gas and oil mix through the blower, it seems like it has no power and is bogging down on high speed. What’s wrong?

A: First, I would check the exhaust screen – it’s probably plugged. It is located on the muffler behind the exhaust opening. You may have to remove a small screw to access the screen (often called a spark arrester screen). Because you’re mixing your gas and oil on the thick side, an oil residue is collecting on the screen, causing it to become plugged. Once this screen becomes plugged, it will block the exhaust gases from exiting out of the engine, causing low power and bogging at high speed. You can just replace it or clean it with a small wire brush. It’s important to reinstall this screen because it protects the interior parts. After cleaning or replacing the screen three times, it is recommended that you remove the muffler completely and clean out the exhaust ports of the engine. If you have to replace or clean the spark arrester screen more than once a year, there’s something wrong. In this case the gas and oil mix is incorrect! Always follow your owner’s manual for proper mixing instructions. Remember, more isn’t always better.

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Combatting “deck droop”

Q: I have an older lawn tractor; the height of cut doesn’t seem to be as high as it was twenty years ago. I have adjusted the deck all the way up, but I still can’t get any more blade height. Any suggestions on how to get a higher cut?

A: After twenty years things get worn out that add to the deck droop – mower deck linkage, wheel bearings and tire wear to name a few – which all cause lower blade height. The easiest, least expensive and quickest fix would be to add more air to your tires. This will raise your whole mower up and you may be able to add an extra ½ inch of height to your cut. If your air pressure is already correct, it is time to look at some of the other items that may be excessively worn.

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Lawn mower maintenance reminder

Q: Is there anything I can adapt to my lawn mower to remind me of the required maintenance?

A: Yes, there is; it’s called an engine minder. Most price out just under $45 and are about the size of a domino. They are mounted with either contact tape or small screws. Some models can be mounted up to 8 feet away from the engine. Minder’s are perfect for lawn and garden, motorcycles, or marine gas-powered equipment. The minder works off of the engines coil wire, requiring no batteries. They’re also designed to withstand severe environments including snow, rain and direct sun light. The minder works like this: When the engine is running, the coil wire powers the minder’s microprocessor from the electrical current going through the wire. This fires the spark plug and records the engines run time in hours. Some models have a “change oil” symbol flash that can be reset when it’s time to perform the maintenance. I have seen engine minders on two-cycle gas-powered leaf blowers and line trimmers as well.

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Disconnect the spark plug before doing maintenance

Q: I heard somebody say once that you should disconnect the spark plug before you change your mower blade. Why?

A: Probably the most important safety precaution that you can take when doing your own repairs or maintenance on a lawnmower is to disconnect the spark plug wire before you do anything else. This is especially true when doing anything with the mower blade. Mowers start by centrifugal force that turns the crankshaft (where the blade is attached) until a spark is created that starts the combustion process. Sometimes it doesn’t take much movement in the blade to start the process and you don’t want to be anywhere near that mower blade if the engine turns over.

To disconnect the spark plug, simply remove the rubber “boot” that connects the spark plug to the wire and turn it so the back of the boot is facing the spark plug.

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